The Master of Traditional Handmade Silk Buttons 傳統花釦之工藝大師
Written by Deborah Lau-Yu
香港擁有一位製作旗袍和傳統華服花鈕鈕扣的工藝大師－浦明華。花鈕是一門逐漸絕跡的手藝，而浦師傅更是香港僅餘的花鈕大師之一。Fête Chinoise 今次有機會訪問浦師傅和長衫薈的兩位召集人，曾舜恩和張黃穎恩，學習花鈕的歷史和現在所面對的挑戰。
Each of Master Po’s intricate knots have auspicious names, an intentional meaning, and a corresponding design. Each twist and loop is effortless for Master Po and represents years of study and practice in the art of traditional embroidered button-making, as she has been in the fashion industry since she was 13, helping out to make ends meet in the family. Because of the traditional nature of the silk buttons and its structural components, artisans rely heavily on suppliers to stock the silk in different colours and the boning. The variety is dwindling, as much of the available stock is leftover from decades ago and factories are no longer remaking these supplies due to low demands.
浦師傅每一顆精緻的花鈕都擁有一個吉祥的稱號，一份由心而發的意義，一款獨特的設計。浦師傅從十三歲起便開始學習花鈕製作，起初是因為想有一門手藝養家。她熟練的一環一扣都表現出她多年的努力深究和經驗。因為傳統花鈕都是用絲線製成，所以師傅都十分依賴供應商不同顏色的絲線存貨。可惜的是，供應商因市場需求低的關係已不再製造這類絲線，而這行業現今所用的物料都是已出產多年的餘貨。
MASTER PO’S HANDCRAFTED CREATIONS. Image: Deborah Lau-Yu
Master Po currently hand crafts these silk buttons for a number of corporate clients and private clients who desire to own something made by the hands of such talented artists, some often framing her complete set of 30 designs as an art piece. She also hosts courses to teach the next generation her craft, but there are fewer and fewer students interested in learning this art today. For those who do come, the craft is another hobby or pastime, whereas for Master Po, it was her entire career. What will happen to the meaning of these knots for the next generation?
浦師傅近年手製花鈕的客戶，一般都是商業和私人客戶，而且全都是因為被浦師傅的手藝所吸引，有些更將其一系列的作品當作藝術展品。她更熱衷於教授年輕一代這間獨特的手藝，但也察覺近年的學生人數愈來愈少。學生們都視花鈕為一種興趣，但對於浦師傅而言，花紐卻是她畢生的工作。年輕的一代會否明白花鈕藝術背後的深層意義嗎？
MASTER PO WITH DONNA CHEUNG, photographed at the ISLAND SHANGRI-LA. Image: Deborah Lau-Yu
photo credit: hong Kong economic and trade office (hketo)
Meet the Master
“Little Plum Blossom Flower Button Making Demonstration Workshop”
Date and time: Saturday June 12th, 6-7pm (PDT) | 9-10pm (EDT)
Tutor: Madam Po Ming Wah
To register, please visit: www.hongkongweek.ca/cheongsam-exhibitions
About the Organizer: In celebration of the Hong Kong Day on July 1st, the Hong Kong Economic and Trade Office (HKETO) has organized the “2021 Hong Kong Week” held from June 2nd to July 1st. This year, the theme is “Transformative Chic: The Everlasting Cheongsam Exhibition” - to showcase the timeless arts of cheongsam (qipao) via exhibition, workshops, business seminars, dragon boat exhibition and so on. Most of the activities will be held virtually for participation by people across Canada. Featuring nine Hong Kong designers — Grace Choi, Janko Lam, Kenny Li, Mary Yu, Mountain Yam, Polly Ho, Ranee Kok, Blind by JW and Cantosoul aka Jasmine Cheung — the exhibition celebrates this symbol of Hong Kong culture and its survival throughout history to become a global trend.
About the writer, Deborah Lau-Yu