Exceptional Cartier Clocks Inspired by Chinese Artistry at Phillips Auction

Written by Fête Chinoise Editorial Team
Image Credits: Phillips

Nine exceptional Cartier clocks, featured in Phillips’ upcoming auctions in Geneva and Hong Kong, offer a unique look at the fusion of craftsmanship, design, and cultural narrative. Spanning from the 1900s to the 1940s, these timepieces reflect Cartier’s deep engagement with artistic movements, particularly during the Art Deco period, and their exploration of Eastern cultural influences.

In the early 20th century, Cartier became renowned not only for its horological innovations but also for its ability to merge Western design with Eastern symbols and stories. Asia’s appeal to Cartier was not born merely out of exoticism but from a profound understanding and respect for its cultural richness. Cartier first became enchanted by the Far East in the early 1900s, sourcing objects from Japan and China, and the 1920s marked the pinnacle of this fascination. The Maison’s designers, including the likes of Jules Glaenzer, took inspiration from Chinese architecture, mythology, and ancient symbols. They delved into the deeper meanings behind jade, dragons, and sacred symbols, crafting timepieces that reflect a cultural dialogue that transcended borders. Cartier’s clocks, with their detailed craftsmanship and rich symbolism, reflect both a deep respect for Eastern traditions and an integration of these cultural influences into their designs.

The clocks featured at Phillips capture the artistic spirit of the era, blending Eastern traditions with Western horological mastery. These pieces demonstrate Cartier’s exceptional ability to transform functional timepieces into profound works of art, drawing on the poetry and symbolism of the Far East.

The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI on May 10-11

Cartier, A historically important, unique, and large Portico Mystery Clock made of rose quartz, enamel, onyx, rock crystal, and diamonds, 1924. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier’s legendary Portico Mystery Clock No. 3, 1924 

Estimate: In excess of CHF 2,000,000 / US$2,280,000 

Inspired by the architecture of Chinese temples, Cartier’s Portico Mystery Clocks (1923-1925) were designed to evoke the grandeur of a traditional Chinese archway, with their frames resembling the columns of a temple gate. The Portico clocks exemplify Cartier’s fascination with the Far East during this period, marrying sophisticated mechanics with rich cultural elements.

Portico Mystery Clock No. 3, created in 1924, is a striking example of this fusion. Its frame is crafted from rose quartz columns, adorned with black enamel latticework, and flanked by Fo lions, symbolizing protection and guardianship in Chinese tradition. The female lion guards the soul, while the male lion guards the external structure. Suspended within the frame is a rock crystal hanging dial, with rose-cut diamond hands in the form of a dragon, symbolizing imperial power, prosperity, and fortune. The clock also features the Chinese character shòu for longevity, set in diamonds, further emphasizing the cultural depth of this masterpiece.

Cartier, A highly rare, charming, and very unusual miniature prism clock with original presentation box, circa 1940. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier’s Miniature Prism Clock, circa 1940

Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000 / US$12,400-24,800 

Measuring just 17.5 x 17.5 x 28.5 mm, this Cartier miniature prism clock draws on periscope principles, using a cleverly engineered prism to reflect the hidden dial and hands, creating the illusion of a floating clock face that vanishes when viewed from behind. Conceived by Gaston Cusin, a close collaborator of Maurice Couet, the inventor of Cartier’s Mystery Clocks, this rare piece embodies a spirit of playful innovation. Accompanied by its original fitted presentation box.

Cartier, An elegant silver, enamel, and rock crystal desk compendium with clock, circa 1925. Image Credits Phillips.

Silver, enamel, and rock crystal desk compendium, circa 1925

Estimate: CHF 15,000 – 30,000 / US$18,600-37,200 

Measuring 29.5 cm in length and 9 cm in width, with a 12 cm tall clock, the piece reflects a refined sense of proportion and clarity. The clock’s dial and movement are signed Cartier, while the rock crystal inkwell handles and gold graphic hands speak to a quiet opulence. A rare object of both utility and beauty, it captures the spirit of thoughtful craftsmanship.

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX’s Evening Session on May 23

Cartier, A unique, extremely rare, impressive, and museum quality rock crystal, diamond, onyx, coral, mother-of-pearl, yellow gold and enamel mystery clock, circa 1930. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier’s Mystery Clock, circa 1930

Estimate: HK$2,000,000 - 4,000,000 / US$256,000-513,000 

This unique Cartier Mystery Clock from circa 1930 combines rock crystal, coral, onyx, and mother-of-pearl, with a central coral carving of a dragon and bixie. The bixie, a mythical creature in Chinese folklore, symbolizes strength and protection, warding off evil spirits. Often depicted as a hybrid of a lion and dragon, it is a powerful guardian in Chinese art and architecture. The dragon, a revered figure in Chinese culture, represents power, good fortune, and prosperity.

The octagonal dial is encircled by a mother-of-pearl bezel and stylised black enamel clouds and features diamond-set hands shaped like dragon wings. Rooted in 19th-century illusionist principles, Cartier’s Mystery Clocks are known for their hidden mechanisms and the mesmerising effect of floating hands. Signed with French hallmarks and housing an original movement by the European Watch and Clock Co., this piece reflects one of the maison’s most imaginative and culturally attuned periods.

Cartier. A unique and stunning red amber and black enamel desk clock with carved jade dial, rose-cut diamond hands, and presentation box, circa 1925. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier Desk Clock, circa 1925

Estimate: HK$1,200,000 - 2,400,000 / US$154,000-308,000 

Crafted in rare Burmese red amber and black enamel, it features a carved jade dial depicting a monkey paired with a red amber bangle adorned with a chimera, a both powerful symbols of longevity, fortune, and protection in Chinese culture. Rose-cut diamond hands, gold Roman numerals, and its original Cartier presentation box complete the composition.

Cartier. An exceptional, unique, and museum-quality nephrite, onyx, lacquer, diamond, and coral-set illuminated desk clock styled as a lantern with double mother-of-pearl dials and presentation box, circa 1925. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier Illuminated Desk Clock, circa 1925 

Estimate: HK$ 960,000 - 1,920,000 / US$123,000-246,000 

The 1920s marked a transformative period, where the Arts flourished, and luxury items became symbols of indulgence and escape. This unique illuminated desk clock by Cartier, circa 1925, blends the elegance of traditional Chinese lantern design with the bold lines of Art Deco. Crafted with nephrite panels, coral latticework, and black lacquer, it features twin mother-of-pearl dials inscribed with Chinese numerals. When lit, the nephrite glows, evoking the warmth of a fire within, while dragon-shaped hands and a crescent-topped crown contribute to the clock's distinctive character, hinting at royal provenance—possibly linked to King Farouk of Egypt.

The clock's dragon-shaped hands symbolize power and fortune, fitting with Chinese cultural imagery, where the dragon represents the emperor and prosperity. The clock's crescent-topped crown, with its resemblance to royal insignia, suggests a connection to King Farouk, who had a passion for luxury and a longstanding relationship with Cartier.

Cartier. A unique and important yellow gold, nephrite, jade, onyx, and lacquer minuterepeating

desk clock with “Laque Burgauté” panels and mother-of-pearl numerals and key, circa 1929. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier Minute-Repeating Desk Clock, circa 1929

Estimate: HK$560,000 - 1,120,000 / US$71,800-144,000 

Crafted in yellow gold, nephrite, jade, onyx, and lacquer, this exceptional desk clock features finely detailed “Laque Burgauté” panels, an East Asian lacquer technique inlaid with tinted mother-of-pearl, depicting serene landscapes and a poetic allusion to the Sacred Spring Peak. A nephrite Fu Dog crowns the case, serving both as a protective symbol in Chinese tradition and as the trigger for the minute-repeating mechanism. The clock is signed by Cartier and comes with matching case and key numbers.

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX’s Evening Session on May 24-25

Cartier. A unique, extremely rare, and historically important rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, yellow gold, onyx, and diamond-set Art Deco mystery clock, circa 1925. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier Modèle A Mystery Clock, circa 1925

Estimate: HK$2,000,000 – 4,000,000 / US$256,000–513,000

Composed of rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, yellow gold, onyx, and diamonds, it creates the mesmerizing illusion of floating hands through a hidden movemen. Signed by Cartier and the European Watch & Clock Co., the piece rests on an elegant onyx base with gold hour markers and delicate beading. In exceptional condition, it is one of only around 60 known examples of this historic model.

Cartier. An imposing, unique, and impressive pink marble, agate, and enamel table clock

with barometer, thermometer, key, and presentation box, circa 1905. Image Credits Phillips.

Cartier Pink Marble Table Clock with Barometer and Thermometer, circa 1905

Estimate: HK$1,200,000 – 2,400,000 / US$154,000–308,000

A striking blend of pink marble, carved agate, and vivid green enamel, this unique Cartier table clock evokes the elegance of Russian-inspired design. Crowned by a finely carved agate elephant, it incorporates a barometer and thermometer alongside its timekeeping function. Signed by Cartier and preserved in its original green presentation box, the piece reflects the grandeur of the Belle Époque and the maison’s early forays into artistic horology.

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